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The Beginners Guide to the Wines of Bordeaux
Hundreds of books have been written on Bordeaux; its history (temporarily ruled by the English), its wines (the biggest wine region in the world), its terroirs (mainly alluvial soil made of stones and debris), its climate (hot but exposed to maritime weather which can create havoc at the time of harvest), and finally, its people (dynasties of négociants or aristocratic owners of the most famous chateaux.) So we will only briefly summarize that information here. Bordeaux consists of relatively plain topography: flat and mostly devoid of trees. Two long rivers, the Garonnne and Dordogne, split the region half and then join together into the Gironde River that flows into the Atlantic Ocean. Despite the plain character, this region consists of the exact elements that produce wines of finesse, subtly and ageing. The moderate climate from the Atlantic and rivers creates a warming effect, protecting Bordeaux from frost. The gravel soil drains water away from the vine roots, allowing the damp resistant Cabernet Sauvignon grape to fully mature. On a negative note, Bordeaux is subject to inconsistent vintages, some hot and dry, and some very wet and cool. To combat this inconsistency, Bordeaux blends together a variety of grapes that grow and mature at different stages. Therefore, a Bordeaux red may consist of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Cabernet Franc. A Bordeaux white is often the blend of Sauvignon Blanc and Semillon. These blends create well-balanced wines with good acidity, minerality and fruit. In recent years newer grape varieties have been added such as Malbec (red) and Muscadelle (white). With the basics out of the way, we can fulfil our main purpose: to try to make it easier for the English speaking consumer to understand the main wine regions of Bordeaux, because unfortunately there are many, and, with 55 different appellations, it is difficult to know which ones you are likely to enjoy the most. We also would like to show you how much Bordeaux has changed over the last 20 years and point you towards even more changes to come from the largest wine region in the world. One basic fact of the Bordeaux region compared to, say Burgundy, is that it is the land of blending. No Bordeaux red or white is made with one single grape; it is always a complex blend of at least two, more frequently three varietals for the reds as well as the whites (traditionally, Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc and Merlot for reds and Sauvignon, Sémillon and Muscadelle for the whites). This fact alone put the Bordeaux region on a sort of pedestal 20 to 25 years ago when most of the new world producers were exclusively mono- varietal producers but since then, most have learned the art of blending. Another striking observation about the Bordeaux region is that vineyards exist everywhere on a 15-mile radius around the city of Bordeaux. If we were not in France, the whole area would simply be called "Bordeaux Wine," but the French, with their Cartesian mind, have recognized through the centuries distinctive qualitative nuances between each zone where grapes grow and came up with small territorial delineations (which they call "terroirs"), which they formalized in the first half of the 20th century by creating the various "Appellation Controlées." Although it may have looked neat on a map, this did not make the sale of wine easier, because as time went by, and after 55 different appellations were created, it became difficult for the consumer, and ever more so for the foreign consumer to figure out what is what. To assist you, we would like to point out that 3 sub-regions dominate and produce about 90% of all the top quality Bordeaux. They are:
The vast area between the two rivers that ultimately merge north of Bordeaux is called "Entre Deux Mers" and produces inexpensive whites that tend to constantly improve in quality. RIGHT BANK (THE AREA THE HOTEL LIES WITHIN) SAINT EMILION POMEROL LUSSAC SAINT EMILION LALANDE DE POMEROL FRONSAC COTES DE CASTILLON MONTRAVEL - COTES DE BERGERAC LEFT BANK MOULIS SAINT JULIEN PAUILLAC SAINT ESTEPHE HAUT-MEDOC MÉDOC . GRAVES
We hope the brief characterisations of each AOC will help you in tasting the wines and for future appreciation of Bordeaux. Bordeaux produces close to a billion bottles of wine per year. A large part of it is "Bordeaux ordinaire" which is sold to supermarkets all over Europe. Obviously the prestigious "Bordeaux" name helps to sell some wines, which can be, at times, of very low quality. Since we have elected to talk only about the top appellations we must bring up the "Robert Parker phenomenon." Over the past few decades, Mr. Robert Parker Jr. has pushed the top Bordeaux growers in producing better wines. The rating of all Bordeaux made it a lot easier for the practical English speaking consumer to buy. On the other hand, the top ratings brought enormous retail prices that a more and more affluent society was eager to pay. The producers, the chateaux owners, found themselves with a cash-flow they never dreamt possible. The smart ones re-invested in their vineyards and production facilities and some now say that Bordeaux has so much technology that it is almost impossible to make a bad wine. With such an arsenal of technology, they can combat the irregular weather at harvest time and come up with satisfactory wines in disappointing years (1997 for example). In conclusion, we can say that Bordeaux is alive and well. It has countered the threat of "New World" wines by creating its own type of new world wines. Such modern wines tend to make disappear the fine taste and flavour nuances that exist between each AOC, but you can always go back to the "classics," also called classified Bordeaux, the "Grands vins" that made Bordeaux's fame. |
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